Showing posts with label charity event. Show all posts
Showing posts with label charity event. Show all posts

Thursday, December 15, 2011

Dinner In The Dark - Noodlecat!

Holy moly! I just realized that I haven't written a blog entry about a Dinner In The Dark charity event since April earlier this year. That means that five of these fantastic dinners have come and gone (one month was canceled and another month was skipped due to low attendance) since I have mentioned this wonderful Cleveland-based organization seeking to not only bring together some of northeast Ohio's best chefs, but also help a local charitable cause in the process. While one of the founding members, Ellis Cooley (who was the chef at AMP 150), has left the Cleveland area to return to his home in Florida, he remains a part of the group along with co-founders Brian Okin and Jeff Jarrett (who interestingly enough now presides as chef at AMP 150). The trio has also recently given their website a face lift to feature events, news, bios on the participating chefs, and the pictures that yours truly has taken at prior dinners.

Tonight's dinner was held at Noodlecat, Jonathon Sawyer's recently opened Japanese and American noodle house mashup. This time around, the dinner was being held to benefit Michael Cantu, a Brecksville young man who earlier this year was involved in a gymnastics accident that left him in a wheelchair with many months of hospital stays.

Since the dinner was on Monday night, parking was a breeze. Since there were no downtown events happening that night, the valet next to Lola Bistro on East 4th was only $8 and the walk from the valet to the front of Noodlecat took all of five minutes. For those unfamiliar with the location of Noodlecat, it is just west of the House of Blues on Euclid Avenue in downtown Cleveland.

Once inside the restaurant, my friend Tami and I were quickly shown to our empty table, having arrived prior to the others in our dining party. I quickly got out the necessary camera gear for tonight's shindig and started to get set up. Here was a shot of the front of the menu:


While I know you haven't seen that menu in some time, gentle reader, a lot of the same players involved now are those that have been with the group since the beginning. Probably the one major addition to those sponsoring the event is Fat Casual BBQ, who graciously provided the staff meal for those involved in pulling off this event.

Flipping the menu over, the back contained the usual list of chefs and symbols cryptically suggesting what each course would be:


All were pretty straightforward except for the guy in the lederhosen for the dessert course. Knowing that Cory Barrett used to be the pastry chef for Lola Bistro, we knew that whatever it turned out to be, it would certainly be very creative and tasty.

Having finished examining the menu, Tami and I turned out attention to the platter of sliced bread sitting in the middle of the table:


While most DITD events have started with an amuse bouche, we couldn't figure out if this was a pre-amuse or this was the main event. It turned out that the bread with herbed olive oil was either the amuse or perhaps just a pre-dinner nibble and there was no official amuse. Either way, mix tasty bread with tasty oil and my mouth was definitely ready for what was to come next.

To go along with our pre-dinner nibble, Joe Deluca and Tobin Northrup sent out a cocktail called Winter Eve Warmer:


Served hot, this mulled wine had all of the warming spices from the Thanksgiving and Christmas season infused into it. There was just enough in the glass to give you a warm feeling inside while the first course made its way into the dining room.

Speaking of which, the first course was Chris Hodgson's (from Dim and Den Sum, Hodge Podge, and the soon-to-be opened Hodge's) and was a play on a "Wendy's Spicy Chicken Sandwich":


The patty consisted of a combination of sous vide and ground chicken thighs mixed with foie gras, seared on the flat top. It was served on a toasted bun with a waterlily leaf, roasted jalapeno and orange blossom aioli and a sliced grape tomato. When assembled, this was quite the mouthful, but a tasty mouthful at that. The foie gras had done its job of adding lots of moisture to the patty and when taking bite after bite, it was imperative to keep the slider over the plate, lest you wear the juice. The sandwich also had a very subtle spice, which was enjoyed by everyone sitting at my table.

The second course came to us from Ben Hsu (from Sushi 86):


The sushi "sandwich," as Chef Hsu put it, was actually seared Albacore tuna sushi done in an Osaka style presentation (where the sushi is made by pressing it into a box), Ghost Chile aioli, shredded daikon radish, wakame jelly, celery leaf, and scallions to garnish. I had never tried Ghost Chiles before, but I do know they are the hottest chile peppers on the planet. I was intrigued to see how well the chef had controlled the heat.

I took a bite with a little bit of each component in the dish and my mouth was rewarded with culinary bliss. Chef Hsu completely knocked this out of the ballpark. The fish was tender, perfectly seared on just the exterior. The Ghost Chile aioli was creamy with just a hint of spice, the wakame jelly added a bit of seaweed flavor and the gelatin helped to cool off the spiciness from the sauce. This was absolutely delicious. I would have been a very happy man with four more courses of the exact same dish.

Fortunately, for me, more delectable goodness was on its way. Specifically, the third course from Brian Goodman (of Greenhouse Tavern fame):


Jonathon Sawyer has been prepping himself to serve a meal at the James Beard house in the near future. He and Brian turned to Richard Olney's Souffle a la Swissesse to accomplish their task. The cheese souffle was cooked well on the outside and managed to stay tender, moist, and steaming on the inside. The souffle was nestled in a bowl of pureed mushrooms and chestnuts and was garnished with fresh thyme. This was truly an umami "bomb," if you will, with the flavors of mushroom, thyme, and cheese predominating. It was also incredibly good and more than one of us at the table wished it wasn't so verboten to lick the bowl in a public restaurant.

Normally at this point in the meal, an intermezzo is served to clear the palate from the previous courses and to prepare the palate to receive the final dishes in the meal. While an intermezzo is usually something slightly sweet and acidic (like sorbet), in sticking with the theme of Noodlecat, a plate of pickled vegetables appeared at our table for us to share:


Starting at twelve o'clock on the plate, you have pickled beets, pickled turnips, pickled pumpkin rind, pickled radishes and the small ramekin in the middle held kimchee, that wonderful pungent and spicy fermented cabbage that Koreans contributed to the global culinary scene. Each was good, but I particularly liked the pickled turnips because they had a nice balance between the acidity of the vinegar and a natural sweetness.

The fourth course was presented to us by Scott Kuhn (from Washington Place Bistro & Inn):


The scallop had been encrusted with dried porcini powder before being seared to a beautiful medium-rare. The scallop was soft and tender and a delight to eat, although mine was a touch on the aggressively seasoned side. That being said, the Israeli couscous that was served with the scallop was a bit underseasoned, so perhaps they were meant to be eaten together. Having only one type of mushroom on this plate was definitely not enough, so in addition to the porcini, sauteed Chanterelle mushrooms made an appearance as well as impossibly-thin shaved black truffles.

For our final savory course, Brian Reilly (from Noodlecat) gave us a soul-satisfying Japanese noodle dish with a twist:


This was the more traditional Japanese component of tonight's fifth course -- fresh Ohio City Pasta udon in a kombu broth with Enoki mushrooms, softened kombu, and scallions.

The American twist came to us in a Chinese take-out box:


Inside was a battered and fried halibut with nori on a stick -- Americans love anything fried on a stick after all -- sitting on top of micro-greens. After combining the two components, I ended up with this:


By the time we were served this course, many at my table were ready to cry "Uncle!" because we were so full. Some ate a little, some ate it all, I ate about half. I ate all of the crispy and juicy halibut, which was cooked to perfection. The pasta served tonight was a little bit flatter than regular udon and after much debate amongst my tablemates, a table-hopping Jonathon Sawyer finally put it to rest by asserting that it was indeed a form of udon. The noodles were tender while still retaining a bit of toothsomeness. The broth was characteristically Japanese, light with great depth of flavor. Overall, this was a lovely dish, even if I didn't finish it.

Our final taste of the evening came from Cory Barrett, former pastry chef at Lola Bistro and now executive chef:


It turned out that the gentleman in lederhosen on the menu actually referred to a citrus Bavarian cream on top of an almond spongecake all topped with a white chocolate plaquette. Also on the plate was a lime curd, Mardarin orange and ginger beer sherbet, and a cardamom crumble. Garnishing the sorbet was a single red sorrel leaf. This was the PERFECT way to end the meal. The dessert was both sweet and tart and easily cleansed the palate after so much other food had preceded it. The cardamom crumble almost had a peppery spice to it that was a wonderful foil for the sweetness. Cory may no longer be practicing the pastry arts on a daily basis, but he has lost none of his skills at balancing competing and complimentary flavors.

Our three hour culinary journey at an end, we packed up our bags and headed out into the chilly Cleveland air. Before we left, it was announced that next month's Dinner In The Dark event would be held at Rocco Whalen's Fahrenheit in Tremont on Monday, January 16th at 6:30 PM. While tickets for this dinner are the same $65 base price as all the other dinners, with tip, taxes, and fees, it comes out closer to $86. One big difference is that the Fahrenheit dinner only has fifty seats instead of the usual seventy, so if you're interested in going, I'd suggest you get your ticket sooner rather than later.

Monday, May 2, 2011

AMP 150 Winner And A Great Charity Event

At midnight on Saturday, I visited Random.org and entered the number of comments left on my blog post regarding the $25 AMP 150 gift card (45 comments). The first go-round left me with #18. Counting the comments from the beginning, it turned out that #18 had been deleted by the original author. Fine. I went for a second random number and this time came up with:

Magical number forty-three! Counting backwards from the bottom led me to MalininGrl, who happened to leave her email address in her comment. I emailed her and she was more than happy to accept the gift card. Congratulations, MalininGrl, I hope your meal at AMP 150 is spectacular!

Next up, I wanted to mention Dinner In The Dark ... now wait, gentle reader. As you know well by now, since last November I have published on a monthly basis my escapades at this amazing series of charity events. And even though May's DITD at the Greenhouse Tavern on Monday, May 16th is already completely sold out, I still plan to review last month's DITD at Palate Restaurant in Strongsville next Monday (as has been my tradition).

However, what I wanted to tell you about was a special Dinner In The Dark that is happening on Monday, May 23rd at AMP 150. It is a slightly different format than the regular dinners. Normally, DITD is a six course wined paired meal that is a "sit down" type of dinner. This special event will have fifteen different stations, each manned by a different chef and instead of servers running food to your table, you will simply approach each station and get the food yourself. So, in essence, this particular event is more of the "stand and mingle" type of dinner.

More importantly, this event is a benefit for the Matthew Finkel Fund. Here's the official profile:

"This 'Special Edition' DITD will feature 15+ chefs offering small bites at various tasting tables. There will also be an assortment of micro breweries and wineries represented as well. As usually we will be offering multiple raffles and silent auctions. The proceeds to this event will go to a scholarship fund in the name of Matthew Finkel and the money will help an under privileged Northeast Ohioan attend the Culinary Institute of America.

Price is $40.00 per person, all inclusive. Due to the expected size of this event, we WILL NOT be able to accept payment at the door.

PLEASE READ MATTHEW'S STORY:

Matthew grew up up in a two bed room apartment in the Bronx with his mother (who is blind), father, grandfather, grandmother, two sisters and brother. He loved to cook since he was a young boy. At the age of 8, he started helping his mother, who was going blind, prepare meals for the family. He was a very good guitarist who began playing at the age of 10 and loved Jimi Hendrix, as well as, composing his own music. He enjoyed working with computers, and would help anyone who was having technical trouble, He had a great heart, and would help anyone with anything, whether or not he he time to spare.

But it was cooking that was his main passion. He would read cookbooks to learn and try out recipes because he knew he wanted to be a chef. He dreamed of going to culinary school but knew it was financially impossible. While in high school he learned of the Food Network offering a full scholarship to CIA with full room and board. Out of countless applicants, he was chosen most deserving and was awarded the scholarship on The Food Network Awards in 2007 by Catherine Zeta Jones and Aaron Eckhart. He received his bachelors of professional studies in Baking and Pastry Management from CIA in May 2010. After graduating he went to work for Bravo TV Top Chef winner Harold Dieterle at his Manhattan restaurant Perilla. He moved to Ohio last October to start a life with fiancee Kirsten Brayn. whom he met and fell in love with while both attended CIA. Matthew was working in Ohio at an artisnal bread shop the Bread Chef in Boardman, Ohio, as well as, Ely Pugh's Vegan restaurant, Ely's To-Go."


So, if you feel like helping out with a great charity and getting to try out the food from fifteen of Cleveland's fantastic chefs, this might be the perfect opportunity. I encourage you to get tickets while they are still available, unlike the DITD at the Greenhouse Tavern and most likely for the one next month at Flying Fig. To buy tickets, simply visit their EventBrite page.

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Dinner In The Dark VI

It is time, once again, for the next monthly installment of the Dinner In The Dark series, this time held in Tremont at Bistro on Lincoln Park. This was only the second time since the series of charity dinners began back in October 2010 that the event was held at a restaurant location other than one owned and operated by one of the founding three chefs, Brian Okin, Ellis Cooley, and Jeff Jarrett. This was also the first dinner to employ the new method of reserving a spot at the table using EventBrite. Whereas before, the dinner was more akin to a typical restaurant dining experience since you paid at the end of the meal, starting with this dinner and continuing forward, you instead pay for a "ticket" in order to reserve a spot at an upcoming one.

Bistro on Lincoln Park was located at 2391 West 11th Street, Cleveland, Ohio 44113 and can be reached at 216-862-2969. Parking was essentially wherever you could find it, and my carmate and I managed to snag a spot just a couple of hundred feet from the entrance to Bistro on West 11th. Once inside, we joined our epicurean compatriots and the six of us settled into our front dining room table and waited for the festivities to begin.

While we waited, I took my usual snapshots of both the front of the menu as well as the back:

Dinner In The Dark VI Menu Front
Dinner In The Dark VI Menu Back
As usual, each of the Dinner In The Dark events benefited a local charity. In tonight's case, it was a combination of the Tremont Farmer's Market as well as the Urban Community School. While I don't know much about the Urban Community School, I do know that there are some fantastic vendors selling their wares at the Tremont Farmer's Market (such as Humble Pie Baking Company and Posh Pierogies, just to name a few) every Tuesday from 4:00 PM - 7:00 PM.

A little bit before 7 PM, this marvelous cocktail, the Spring Blossom, was delivered to each diner at our table:

Spring Blossom Cocktail
Comprised of gin, St. Germaine, and fresh lemon juice, this was incredibly light and very refreshing. For some reason, "Easter" popped into my head and the only thing I could come up with was a correlation of the floral notes from the St. Germaine and the smells and tastes growing up during Easter in my house. Strange, but there it is.

As with all of the DITD meals, it was to be a six-course wine paired dinner with two extra courses thrown in, and we started out with Bistro's own Cory Hess serving us an imaginative amuse bouche:

Vanilla Scented Macaroon with Foie Gras Buttercream
This was a vanilla scented macaroon filled with a foie gras buttercream and rolled in poppy seeds. Some of us at the table may have questioned the execution of the macaroons, but no one uttered a single negative thing about the luscious foie gras buttercream that filled the two halves. The poppy seeds added an interesting crunch that offset the creaminess of the buttercream and the softness of the macaroon.

Our first course of the evening was presented to us from Chef Michael Nowak from Bar Cento and was a Wild Mushroom Vol-au-Vent with Fennel Puree and Parsley and was paired with a Domaine Aime Cabernet Franc:

Vol-au-Vent with Fennel Puree and Parsley
This was tender and flaky and the five types of mushrooms used added an amazing earthiness to the dish. The fennel puree had notes of anise which acted in a supporting role to really make this dish superb. Chef Nowak also has a Vol-au-Vent dish on his own menu at Bar Cento and this was a definite riff off of that.

Our second course was brought to us by the Plucky Cluck Restoration Society's own Jeremy Esterly and Mike Schoen and was a dill pickle brined quail, heirloom fingerling potato salad with a warm bourbon vinaigrette, bread and butter green tomatoes, and micro kale. This was paired with a Yali Wetlands Merlot Rose:

Deep Fried Quail with Potato Salad and Pickled Green Tomato
Not to steal from the Colonel, but this was "finger lickin' good." The quail was incredibly juicy, the potato salad nicely dressed, but the real showstopper on this plate was the bread and butter pickled green tomato. The interplay between sweet, sour, and crunch was magnificent and I think once Plucky Cluck gets settled into their permanent home, this ought to be on their menu year round if possible. It was simply that good.

Our final course of the first half of the meal was provided by AMP 150's Chef Ellis Cooley and was paired with a last minute wine substitution from Lamb Valley, Oregon:

Anarchy
At Dinner In The Dark, the organizers encourage chefs to play with their courses and make them unique. Chef Cooley delivered exponentially tonight by serving up ... are you ready for this? Marinated hamachi in soy balsamic, olive oil and chili; red cabbage kimchee puree emulsion on yellow beets and olive oil; pea sprout juice, salty mushroom pudding, and lemon aioli; edible flowers, micro chervil, toasted rice pearls, baby greens, beet paper, sweet pickles, Wakami Jelly, and Finnan Haddie Foam. Holy crap, the description alone needed an entire paragraph! While I can confidently say that this has been the most adventurous dish I've ever been served at a DITD, what really mattered was how it tasted.

Part of the adventure of eating such a dish is that the experience is different for every diner because of the way you combine different elements on the plate. Personally, I like to play with my food (a nod to Nancy's excellent food blog) and this dish was perfectly suited for this task. Would I want all six courses to be like this? No, but I think one like this every once in a while keeps things fresh and diners on their toes.

Cory Hess again delivered during the intermezzo course with an interesting Prickly Pear Sorbet and Coconut Foam with several crystals of Black Cypress Sea Salt:

Prickly Pear Sorbet with Coconut Foam
While prickly pear juice wasn't an everyday flavor to the diners at the table, when we were finally told what it was, lots of head nodding happened. However, NONE of us would have guessed at the coconut foam. The sea salt acted in the same way it did in something like salted caramel, adding slight notes of savory to compliment the sweet. The sorbet did a great job at cleansing our palates.

The first course of the second half of the menu began with Bistro on Lincoln Park's own executive chef, Pete Joyce, presenting a salmon and asparagus dish paired with Wine By Joe Jovino Pinot Noir:

Poached Canadian Salmon with White Asparagus
This was a farm-raised poached Canadian salmon with blanched white asparagus, vanilla brown butter vinaigrette, sweet and sour red peppers, shaved sweet onion, grains of paradise, caramelized grapefruit, grains of paradise and shaved white chocolate. First, the highlights of this dish. The agrodolce treatment of the red peppers were a welcome and delectable touch on the plate. The vanilla brown butter vinaigrette and white chocolate on the white asparagus were an unusual, but interestingly complementary pairing. While the salmon at first appeared to be cooked perfectly medium rare, once you got into the piece, it was closer to rare/raw than medium-rare. Sadly, this was the case not just with my portion, but almost everyone at the table.

The fifth course of tonight's meal, and the last savory one, was presented by Chef Aaron Guzik of L'albatros Brasserie and was a Braised Brisket over Celeriac Polenta with Kale and Roasted Beets and was paired with a Wirra Wirra Catapult Shiraz Viognier:

Braised Brisket with Celeriac Polenta and Braised Kale
Sauced with a mushroom jus and topped with kale micro-greens, this was definitely a hearty way to finish up the savory courses for tonight's meal. The celeriac polenta was smooth and dense and the roasted beets added a wonderful sweetness to the dish. It was also nice to see kale represented two ways, both braised as well as a garnish. The only real downside was the brisket. While brisket is normally cooked for hours on end to make it fall apart tender, which tonight's version was, it was also dried out. All of us at our table had high hopes for this dish and for the most part, it worked.

Not to be outdone, Chef Heather Haviland, from Lucky's Cafe, delivered a final course that knocked all of our collective socks off, a ‎30 layer crepe torte with chocolate butter-creme, cashews, salted caramel butter-creme and chocolate ganache butter-creme:

30 Layer Crepe Torte
This was served with a Montaribaldi Birbet. The layers of ultra-thin crepes were filled with utterly delicious and very delicately sweetened smooth and creamy buttercream flavors. After all of those heavy savory courses, it would have been all too easy to over-sweeten this, but I think the remarkableness of this dish was how well balanced it was. It really reminded me of authentic European pastries I've had in the past that had a similar restraint to them. This was a fantastic way to wrap up the meal and even with how full I had been after the fifth course, I had no problem putting away the entire thing.

The courses now complete, all of tonight's chefs came out for a well-deserved round of applause:

Tonight's Chefs
There were some prizes to be auctioned off, but my carmate and I needed to return to Akron and since the dinner was pre-paid, there was no need to stick around and wait for checks to be doled out. The next Dinner In The Dark is this coming Monday, April 18th, at Palate Restaurant and Lounge in Strongsville and I strongly encourage you to attend if you are willing to be a bit adventurous and leave the dinner completely up to the chefs. My experience has been that sometimes some of the dishes can be slightly off from time to time, but when a dish is spot on, like at least several have been every time, it is pure magic in your mouth.

To purchase tickets for the next Dinner In The Dark, visit their EventBrite site. Dinner is $65 per person, but once you factor in tip, tax, and the EventBrite fee (think of it like the TicketMaster convenience fee), it comes closer to $86 per person. While this may seem a bit high, remember that these dinners are not lining the pockets of the chefs cooking the dinner, but local charities that can use the community support. I know that I'll be there and I hope to see you, too.

I'm still dreaming of that bread and butter pickled green tomato.

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

ASGC Chili Cook-Off: A Pictoral

Last Saturday, I had the honor and privilege of being asked back for the second year in a row to participate as one of the judges at the 2011 Greater Cleveland Chili Cook-Off For Autism. The charity event helps to fund the Autism Society of Greater Cleveland and provide support, education, and assistance to those dealing with, or are related to someone dealing with autism, a condition for which there is no known cause and no known cure.

As opposed to last year's venue at Jacob's Field, this year, the event was held at the Quickens Loan Arena on the third floor from approximately noon until 3 PM. As a judge, I was told to arrive by 11:30 AM and because I had never been to the 'Q', I decided to show up at 11:00 AM just in case. After pulling into the garage on Huron next to the Q, I made my way to the third floor, where helpfully, a skybridge connected the garage with the entrance to the event. After a quick check through security, I entered the original lounge of Bar Symon (the second location in Avon Lake now closed).

At the appointed hour, the judges gathered outside the main hall and Gus Gallucci, judge herder extraordinaire, explained how the judging would work and assigned each judge to assess four of the eleven chilies present today. Fortunately, with seven judges, we didn't each have to taste and rate all eleven.

Right at around twelve o'clock, we (the judges) entered the basketball court where all the contestants had set up shop:

2011 Greater Cleveland Chili Cook-Off for Autism at the Q
From the chili cook's point of view, each wanted to walk away with one of these bad boys:

2011 People's Choice Award
From the perspective of the chili eater, they were more interested in all of the auction and prize items that were generously donated:

Auction Items
Since I only judged four of the chilies and ate another three, I don't think I'm qualified to talk about some of them and not others. That being said, fellow food blogger and friend Nancy from Fun Playing With Food was a fellow judge and took copious notes and I'm sure that her write-up will more than fill in my woeful gaps. I'll link to her article once it goes live on her blog.

That said, I CAN at least show you who participated this year. Here's where the pictoral part of this post begins.

Ken Kostal from Big BoppersKen Kostal from Big Boppers


Shana Trepal from Treehuggers CafeShana Trepal from Treehuggers Cafe (and Mr. Gallucci enjoying some samples)


Lanny Chin from Market Cafe and DeliLarry Chin from Market Cafe and Deli in the West Side Market


Pete Dressen from Inn WaldenPete Dressen from Inn Walden


Bill Polewchek from 20 Mule Team BorrachoBill Polewchek and Fred Griffith (yes, THAT Fred Griffith) from 20 Mule Team Borracho


Michael Dehnery from Yours TrulyMichael Dehner(y) from Yours Truly
(there was some discussion as to whether his last name ended in a 'y')


Jeff Stanton from Zinc BistroJeff Stanton from Zinc Bistro along with surprised fellow judge Brian Doyle


Doug Fulton from 5 Star CateringDoug Fulton from 5 Star Catering


John Wright from PeppermillJohn Wright from Peppermill Pub and Grill


Eric Wells from Skye LaRae's Culinary ServicesEric Wells and his lovely wife from Skye LaRae's Culinary Services


Samuel Quinones from Embassy SuitesSamuel Quinones from Embassy Suites


Desserts/Breads from Lucy's Sweet SurrenderIn addition, Lucy's Sweet Surrender graciously provided these palate cleansers and sweet treats.


The Four MuskateersFinally, the Four Muskateers: Joe Harvey, Ellis Cooley, Jeff Jarrett, and Brian Doyle.

The judges awarded John Wright from Peppermill with first place and the People's Choice award went to Ken Kostal from Big Boppers. All of the chilies I tasted tonight were simply outstanding and it really was difficult to pick which one was the best because they were all so different (in fact, of the four I had to judge, there was only a four point spread between them).

By the end of the event, I was definitely "chilied out," and looking for something bland and innocuous, like Saltines, to tame the fire that burned within. Of course, the real winner here is the Autism Society of Greater Cleveland and even more importantly are the people and families it serves. I urge you to please show your support for this wonderful charity by supporting and visiting the restaurants and catering services of the contestants who participated today. While publicity is certainly a benefit to being a part of the event, I know that many of them hold the cause very close to their hearts as well.

Thursday, March 17, 2011

Dinner In The Dark V

About one month ago, I attended the latest Dinner in the Dark dinner at Melange Restaurant in Beachwood. While the streets were snow-covered enough in Akron that employers were letting employees go home early, Cleveland's streets weren't too bad. Well, at 4:00 PM they weren't bad. When I left some time later that evening at 9:30 PM, my drive home was lengthy and treacherous. Really treacherous. That being said, was risking life and limb worth it for this latest installment from some of Cleveland's best chefs? You had better believe it.

As with all of the DITD dinners, there was a beneficiary involved. This time around it was the Rose-Mary Center, a charity dedicated to serving both children and adults with intellectual disabilities. This charity hits close to home for me as my younger sister has lived her entire life with intellectual disabilities. While she is fairly high functioning, she does need checked in on every now and again to make sure she is doing well. Were she living in Cleveland, I have no doubt that she might very well be served by this fantastic organization.

As I mentioned earlier, I arrived quite early at the restaurant and after explaining who I was and why I was there, was invited to sit at the bar and work on my little netbook. When the appropriate time finally rolled around (6:30 PM), I was shown to our table in the corner of the restaurant and I took my seat and prepared my camera to start taking snapshots. First on the docket, of course, was tonight's menu. On the first side was a description of Dinner In The Dark, the charity it would be serving, and a list of tonight's amuse bouche and opening cocktail:

Dinner In The Dark Menu Front Page
As always, the back side contained a list of chef's and their primary ingredient in the form of a small image:

Dinner In The Dark Menu Back Page
Within a few moments of arriving at the table, our opening cocktail of the evening arrived, Trouble with Truffles:

Pre-dinner Cocktail: Trouble with Truffles
A joint effort from Joseph Deluca and Tobin Northrup, this ruby red concoction consisted of freshly juiced beets and carrots mixed with fat washed Boru vodka that had been infused with truffles. In true margarita-style, the rim of the champagne flute had been rimmed with salt and pepper. While certainly an inventive and very earthy drink, the combination of flavors was a bit odd to my palate. It wasn't bad, per se, I just don't think I would be ordering another.

We didn't have to wait long for the onslaught of food to begin and only minutes later, Adam Bostwick, co-executive chef at Melange, started us out with his play on Buffalo-style chicken wings:

Buffalo Frog Leg
This was actually not a chicken wing, but a Frenched frog leg that had been soaked in buttermilk, coated in flour and fried until crispy. It was served over a blue cheese sauce and hot sauce and plated with some micro carrot and celery salad. The meat was succulent and juicy and the combination of playful flavors on the plate worked very well together. As an amuse bouche should be, it was a bite or two of intensely flavored food that made us all crave the next course.

Matt Creghton, the other co-executive chef at Melange, provided us with the first course, a Hot and Sour Fish and Noodle Soup which was paired with a Balletto Pinot Gris from Sonoma:

Pacu Hot and Sour Soup
The bowls actually arrived at the table sans soup and after placing one in front of each guest, a server armed with a pitcher individually filled each soup bowl, softening the rice noodles on the spot. The fish was Paku, a relative of the barracuda. The ribs had been cooked to absolute perfection and the flavor of the meat was rich and powerful. The level of spice and piquancy from the soup broth matched the fish meat perfectly and had I eaten a bigger portion of this for my entire meal, I would have been in heaven. Hands down, this was probably one of the most perfect renditions of hot and sour soup I think I have ever had.

Our second course for the evening was presented by Brian Doyle, chef at World's Fair Culinary, and was a playful rendition of that classic Bugs Bunny cartoon, "Rabbit season! Duck season!" It was paired with a P.B. Hein Syrah from Suisun Valley, California:

Duck Season/Rabbit Season
This was rabbit meat that had been confitted in duck fat before being wrapped in caul fat and crisped up in the pan for service. Joining in the fun were a parsnip and burdock sauce, a carrot ginger emulsion, baby radishes and carrots, and some micro celery and chervil. It's quite a mouthful to say and it was quite a mouthful to eat. The rabbit was tender, the duck fat lent a wonderful mouth feel, and the carrot ginger emulsion had enough acidity and bite to clean the tongue after the richness from the meat. The parsnip puree was equally as luscious, coating my taste buds with the sweet vegetal flavor from the transformed root vegetables.

Our third course tonight, the salad course, came to us via Chef Eric Wells from Skye Larae's Culinary Services, and was a Mixed Greens Salad over a Crouton with Miso Vinaigrette. It was paired with a Los Loros Torrontes from Calchaquies Valley in Argentina:

Mixed Greens Salad Over Sourdough Crouton and Miso Vinaigrette
For something that was so simple, this dish packed a lot of flavor. Mixed greens, citrus segments, sourdough crouton, and miso vinaigrette were all that adorned the plate, but each bite was packed with flavor. The only real negative here was that the crouton was a bit thick and because of it being toasted, was a bit hard to cut through, even with a knife. The vinaigrette had been applied with a careful hand and just like any properly dressed salad, when I finished the food on the plate, not a drop of leftover vinaigrette could be found.

The intermezzo came next, a simple granita from Ashley Young:

Berry Granita with Tarragon Sugar
Each spoon contained a combination raspberry, blueberry, strawberry, and blackberry granita that had been topped with a bit of tarragon sugar and finished with a half blueberry for garnish. The balance between the acidity and sweetness was spot on and this was an excellent way to cleanse our palates halfway through the meal.

The first half of the meal now behind us, we focused our efforts on powering through to the end. The fourth course was served by Chris Hodgson, owner and chef of the Dim and Den Sum foodtruck and was a Lobster Pot Pie. It was paired with a Willowbrook Pinot Noir from Sonoma:

Lobster Pot Pie
The light and flaky puff pasty crust cracked under fork pressure to reveal large pieces of lobster meat, potatoes, celery, carrots, bacon, and a heady seafood-based liquid. The liquid was a bit on the loose side for my idea of what a proper "pot pie" should be, but there was no denying that it was delicious. As is the case with all seafood, during the consumption of this dish, I discovered one or two small bits of lobster shell in the dish, which I discreetly put aside on the side of the plate.

Our final savory course was presented to us by chef and owner of Spice of Life Catering, Ben Bebenroth and was a Seared Pork Loin Medallion served over Sweet Potato Mash with an Heirloom Bean Salad on top. It was paired with a Blue Nose Zinfandel from Sonoma (lots of Sonoma love here tonight, no?):

Seared Pork Loin Over Sweet Potato Mash
The savoriness from the pork matched so well with the subtle sweetness from the sweet potato mash. The beans had a bit of a bite to them without being starchy and the roasted poblano chiles added a subtle heat that permeated every bite. If it weren't for the fact that we were one amuse, one intermezzo, and five courses into the meal, I probably would've eaten the entire portion. As it was, I ate about half before declaring a decisive, "Uncle!" Besides, I knew I needed to save room for dessert.

And before I knew it, Katie Pickens, Sous Chef at Lola Bistro, was out with her Meyer Lemon Tart and Sorbet with Bruleed Grapefruit and Salted Caramel. It was paired with a Cloudy Cape Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand:

Meyer Lemon Tart with Meyer Lemon Sorbet
She had cleverly placed the tiniest bit of lavender on the one edge of the lemon tart. While too much lavender in a dish can immediately conjure up images of sucking on a bar of soap, Katie's deft use of the herb showed that she knew exactly what she was doing. The lemon and lavender flavors truly reinforced one another without overpowering either one. The custard was semi-soft and oozed slightly as I cut into the tender crust. The primary flavor of the dessert was lemon, but with the acidity from the grapefruit as well as the sweetness from the salted caramel, every taste bud cluster on my tongue was electrified.

With that final course came the raffle at the end of the evening as well as the checks. Dinner tonight was $65 plus tax and tip, so it wasn't an inexpensive meal. However, given the level of food, the great charitable cause, and the general level of fun I always seem to have at these once-per-month dinners, I definitely think it was well worth it. Note that the next event will be held at Bistro on Lincoln Park in Tremont on Monday, March 21st at 6:30 PM. While in the past, all you simply had to do was call the hosting restaurant and make a reservation, the organizers have decided to employ a TicketMaster-esque analog called EventBrite to handle payment for your seats ahead of time. While I certainly don't mind pre-paying for my spot at the table, the only downside I see with EventBrite is that it makes its money off of a per ticket fee, namely $5.50 per ticket in this case. So, a single ticket, with tax, tip, and fee will run you at about $86 per person.

I know that I've already bought my ticket for the next dinner and I hope that I might see you on Monday night for the next installment. There are still nine tickets remaining!
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